However, I did make a modification in order to get a more natural curve to the heel. Instead of dividing the stitches into thirds as instructed here, I divided the stitches into quarters. When knitting the first half of the heel, I repeat the pattern until my knitting is divided as:
– one quarter double stitches on the left,
– one half plain sts in the middle + 1 extra stitche
– one quarter double stitches on the right, except 1 st short.

Then on the second half of the heel, instead of knitting across 2/3 of the heel sts, I knit across 3/4, and then on the first WS row, I “…P back [half of the heel sts, minus the one you slipped]…”

In the example given below that, in a 36 st heel:
“First knit across 3/4 of the sts = 27 sts. Leave 9 sts of the heel unworked on the left side.
Turn and use 1 st to make the WS double st, the purl pack over (2/4 of the heels sts -= 1) = (18 sts – 1) = 17 sts.
Now 9 sts on the right sid eof the heel also remain unworked. Turn.”

For me, using these dimensions resulted in a heel that had a more natural curve and a better fit. The thirds method resulted in a heel that had a “sharp” curve.

I looked at the video provided by Sara (#52) and the difference appears to be that she is knitting back instead of turning. The key in her video, just as in the instructions here, is the placement of the yarn end before slipping the stitch, which allows it to pull up the stitch from the row below, creating the double stitch.

I also want to try the re-inforced double stitch heel mentioned by Kath (#53).

But I love this Double-Stitch Short Row method (yo-yo/jo-jo/whatever), and I will continue to use it until I find something that works better. Thanks for posting this!